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general discussion » the ultimate men's dress thread

lucas's avatar
14 years ago
r3, link
lucas
i ❤ demo
have

suit: gray pinstripe, two piece, single vent, two buttons, notch lapel, no pleats, no cuffs.

blazer: dark navy, wool, no vent, two buttons, notch lapel.

pants: black pinstripe, no pleats, no cuffs.
pants: navy pinstripe, no pleats, no cuffs.
pants: brown pinstripe, no pleats, no cuffs.

ties: twelve, assorted.

shirt: white checkered twill 130, spread collar, no pocket, back pleat, normal placket, normal gauntlet, french cuffs.
shirt: pure-white poplin 100, straight-point collar, no pocket, back pleat, normal placket, normal gauntlet, french cuffs.
shirt: pure-white poplin 100, straight-point collar, no pocket, back pleat, normal placket, normal gauntlet, french cuffs.
shirt: blue royal oxford, spread collar, no pocket, no back pleat, normal placket, normal gauntlet, french cuffs.
shirt: pink royal oxford, spread collar, no pocket, no back pleat, french placket, french gauntlet, french cuffs.
shirt: lavender royal oxford, straight-point collar, no pocket, no back pleat, normal placket, normal gauntlet, french cuffs.
shirt: chocolate and pink blazer stripe, spread collar, no pocket, no back pleat, normal placket, normal gauntlet, french cuffs.
shirt: lustre-pink oxford 80, button-down collar, pocket, pack pleat, normal placket, normal gauntlet, single-button cuffs.

shoes: johnston & murphy black oxfords.

cuff links: silver squares with gold edging.
cuff links: gold rounds.

silk knots: brown and cyan.
silk knots: brown and pink.
silk knots: black and purple.
silk knots: black and violet.

want

suit: black pinstripe, wool, three-piece, notch lapel, pick stitching, no pleats, no cuffs.

shoes: tan oxfords.
lucas's avatar
14 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
want

shoes: allen-edmonds soho in cognac (link)

i have no idea where to find them in my size, though. (they have been discontinued.)
ozntz's avatar
14 years ago
link
ozntz
toooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
I have a bunch of cheap shirts and pants because I have to wear them everyday and end up destroying them pretty quickly.

I do want to get a black pinstripe suit but don't know what to look for
lucas's avatar
14 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
check out indochino.com.
lucas's avatar
14 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
want

accessory: case or box for jewelry (i.e., links, knots, tie bars)
nestor's avatar
14 years ago
link
nestor
nestor
i have AE sohos in black!

as i'm in india i can't do a proper inventory right now, but i need to buy a lot as i'll be wearing business formal 5 days a week. to buy list:

- one very nice suit, probably pinstripe (budget: $1,000, bespoke)
- one 'less nice' suit, not sure of pattern (budget, $750, bespoke)
- re-cut my grey suit (pants need to be de-pleated, other adjustments, budget: $250)
- adjust my navy suit (budget: $100)
- buy about 3 new ties (currently own about 4 that are passable to wear to work, budget: $200)
- buy about 5-7 new shirts, probably split between biased cut and a less expensive bespoke place in Toronto (currently own about 3 or 4 that i would want to wear to work, budget: $600)
- buy brown dress shoes (budget: $350)
- buy new black, brown belts (budget: $200)
- buy lots of blue, black dress socks (budget: $50)

total clothes budget for work: $3,500
nestor's avatar
14 years ago
link
nestor
nestor
depending on how rich i feel when i come back from india i may skip the 'less nice' one and wait a while and just buy a second 'very nice' one, especially if the adjustments to my existing two suits work out really well (mostly focused on the grey one - it's canadian-made but for some reason when i got it i decided to get it pleated, which makes me look ridiculous and really fat).
Carpetsmoker's avatar
14 years ago
link
Carpetsmoker
Martin
Fuck, how the hell do you manage to spend so much money on clothes? 200 dollar for 3 ties? Fuck.
nny's avatar
14 years ago
link
nny
M̮͈̣̙̰̝̃̿̎̍ͬa͉̭̥͓ț̘ͯ̈́t̬̻͖̰̞͎ͤ̇ ̈̚J̹͎̿̾ȏ̞̫͈y̭̺ͭc̦̹̟̦̭̫͊̿ͩeͥ̌̾̓ͨ
200 is a bit much for ties. 1000 is about right for a suit of moderate quality.
bsdlite's avatar
14 years ago
link
bsdlite
thinks darkness is his ally
$750, bespoke? where
bsdlite's avatar
14 years ago
link
bsdlite
thinks darkness is his ally
$1,000 is plenty for a suit of excellent material, decent craftsmanship; or decent material, excellent craftsmanship

only a hideously rich moron would buy an OTR "moderate quality" suit for > $1,000
bsdlite's avatar
14 years ago
link
bsdlite
thinks darkness is his ally
> i decided to get it pleated, which makes me look ridiculous

qft; i hate pleats :> although my boss looks good in them (6' 4", ~250 lb)
nny's avatar
14 years ago
link
nny
M̮͈̣̙̰̝̃̿̎̍ͬa͉̭̥͓ț̘ͯ̈́t̬̻͖̰̞͎ͤ̇ ̈̚J̹͎̿̾ȏ̞̫͈y̭̺ͭc̦̹̟̦̭̫͊̿ͩeͥ̌̾̓ͨ
custom cut suits are worth the investment. they just look fucking amazing.
nestor's avatar
14 years ago
link
nestor
nestor
> $750, bespoke? where
local place in Toronto I was referred to.

> only a hideously rich moron would buy an OTR "moderate quality" suit for > $1,000
there are plenty where i'm from. i guess i was one at one point, i have an OTR boss suit that i paid > $1,000 for. it's fine, but never again...
lucas's avatar
14 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
> accessory: case or box for jewelry (i.e., links, knots, tie bars)

i don't understand some of the products out there. suppose that i own three pairs of tiffany cufflinks. what good does this case do for me? so i have a box to dump them all in, but then they're rattling around, scratching each other.

it seems absolutely necessary to have a solution that keeps them from scratching one another. such a solution could be putting each individual link in its own compartment (as in this case), or wedging them between fabric to keep them stationary (as in this case).

are people really not concerned with their jewelry getting scratched? i suppose that scratches will naturally occur while wearing the cufflinks, but this neglect just seems silly to me.

also, i'd really like something fairly small and light that is suitable for travel.

thoughts?
nny's avatar
14 years ago
link
nny
M̮͈̣̙̰̝̃̿̎̍ͬa͉̭̥͓ț̘ͯ̈́t̬̻͖̰̞͎ͤ̇ ̈̚J̹͎̿̾ȏ̞̫͈y̭̺ͭc̦̹̟̦̭̫͊̿ͩeͥ̌̾̓ͨ
I'm a dude, and I wouldn't buy cuff links from tiffany. Because that's an inordinate waste of money, and in no way reflects me as a person.

So, no I don't care what happens to my cuff links.
lucas's avatar
14 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
not wanting to buy tiffany cuff links implies that you don't want to take care of your cuff links?

i don't foresee buying tiffany cuff links either. but i still want to take care of the ones i have.
nny's avatar
14 years ago
link
nny
M̮͈̣̙̰̝̃̿̎̍ͬa͉̭̥͓ț̘ͯ̈́t̬̻͖̰̞͎ͤ̇ ̈̚J̹͎̿̾ȏ̞̫͈y̭̺ͭc̦̹̟̦̭̫͊̿ͩeͥ̌̾̓ͨ
I am rugged and adventurous... my cuff links should share my grizzled looks.
lucas's avatar
14 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
nestor, bsdlite, et al., what is your opinion of the following?

1) natural shoulders (lightly padded or unpadded)?
2) vests--when are they overkill?
3) functional jacket cuff buttons--overkill or silly?
4) jacket buttons--1, 2, or 3?
5) vest buttons--5 or 7?
6) 1 or 2 vents?
nestor's avatar
14 years ago
r1, link
nestor
nestor
1. lightly padded.
2. when they are a surprise. *
3. not silly, unless you have a habit of showing it off by leaving one undone. not a big plus though.
4. two.
5. not wise enough on three piece suits.
6. your preference. i like two. single vent looks too rounded on me. if i was a real skinny dude i would probably go for one.

* a surprise to reasonably fashionable people in a given setting. in my workplace, i've never seen anyone but the most senior bankers wear them.
lucas's avatar
14 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
cool, thanks!

what about pocket flaps? do you look ridiculous wearing a navy pinstripe suit without pocket flaps to work?
nestor's avatar
14 years ago
link
nestor
nestor
i have pocket flaps.
bsdlite's avatar
14 years ago
link
bsdlite
thinks darkness is his ally
1. lightly padded
2. when you aren't a secret agent, senior partner, or trying to draw attention to yourself
3. see (2)
4. 2
5. 5
6. 2
lucas's avatar
14 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
damn, dudes are anti-vest
nny's avatar
14 years ago
link
nny
M̮͈̣̙̰̝̃̿̎̍ͬa͉̭̥͓ț̘ͯ̈́t̬̻͖̰̞͎ͤ̇ ̈̚J̹͎̿̾ȏ̞̫͈y̭̺ͭc̦̹̟̦̭̫͊̿ͩeͥ̌̾̓ͨ
The vest comes with two KEY requirements.

1. You must own and use a pocket watch.

2. You must be capable of fencing if challenged.

If you satisfy both of those requirements, your vest is successfully deployed.
Carpetsmoker's avatar
14 years ago
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Carpetsmoker
Martin
haha
nestor's avatar
14 years ago
link
nestor
nestor
http://www.dolbeau.ca/

these ties are very nice, but a little pricey.
lucas's avatar
14 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
haha yeah, i've been there and considered those. :)
nestor's avatar
14 years ago
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nestor
nestor
i'll report back on the quality of the windmill club ties.

i've also ordered a few silk ties (along with a tie bar and scarf) from the fine and dandy shop. the ties are very well priced at $45. i'll also report back on those.

http://www.fineanddandyshop.com/ties.html
lucas's avatar
14 years ago
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lucas
i ❤ demo
swell :)
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
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nestor
nestor
tie clips?
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
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lucas
i ❤ demo
nestor: i have a couple cheap tie clips from macy's (like this one). one is polished silver, the other is brushed silver.

i guess tie pins are bad (for your ties!), huh?

i like tie bars that don't clip (like this one, but don't get it, because it sucks). this one from tiffany doesn't cost too much more, and i'd guess the quality is good.

-----

brooks brothers had 15% off yesterday morning, so i got these items:
merino v-neck sweater in sky blue, eggplant, and charcoal ($59 each after all discounts)
lambswool crew-neck sweater in pink ($59 each after all discounts)

they also had a "any two ties for $100" deal, so i tried to get a grey flannel and a navy striped tie for $100. unfortunately, they wouldn't let me--the tie deal only applies to their $75 ties, not their $125 ties. :)
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
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nestor
nestor
the fine and dandy silk ties are great. wore the emerald / red / cyan / white striped one to a christmas party last night.
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
link
nestor
nestor
i think i need to do a biased cut order tonight while there's a massive 25% discount (and new shirts).

fyi, you can request knife pleats or no pleats if you don't like the centre back pleat.
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
r1, link
lucas
i ❤ demo
you should, but i think the deal is over: "Receive 25% off of these or any other shirts by entering the code Thanksgiving at checkout. Offer valid 11/26 - 11/27 only; may not apply with other promotions."

yep, you can request customizations of almost anything on the shirts (no back pleat, french placket, contrast collar, contrast cuffs, and more).
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
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nestor
nestor
what is a french placket?
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
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nestor
nestor
i realized that i missed the sale a few minutes after i posted that.

i'm not too worried. i have two shirts in the mail where i tweaked the sizing of the hips/waist by about 1". i want to see how that fits before doing another massive order.
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
french placket
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
r2, link
lucas
i ❤ demo
would you guys agree that a balmoral shoe is more formal than a blücher shoe?
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
styleforum agrees
bsdlite's avatar
13 years ago
r1, link
bsdlite
thinks darkness is his ally
ok ceteris paribus :D
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
link
nestor
nestor
i finally got the AE strand in walnut!
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
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lucas
i ❤ demo
nice. the women will love them.
Étrangère's avatar
13 years ago
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Étrangère
I am not a robot...
Intense toes on those ones, nestor
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
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nestor
nestor
i find the broguing a bit ostentatious in these pictures - on a size 12, they look more spaced out
Chiken's avatar
13 years ago
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Chiken
Don't Let Your Walls Down
So I need to get a suit for this wedding I'm going to at the end of April. I'm kind of clueless as to what to expect to pay for this. I want something fairly nice, but to be honest I have no idea what I'm doing. Any kind of general guidance you guys could hook me up with, as in expected price ranges would be awesome!
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
r3, link
lucas
i ❤ demo
get an indochino suit. watch this page for a good coupon. if you don't see one appear, i'd be willing to sell you a $150 voucher for $75.

if you buy a suit on sale at a department store and get it properly tailored, you'll spend more than you would going the indochino route.

the best all-around suit to get would be a charcoal, in my opinion. $350 (before any coupons) at indochino. with a white shirt and a nice silk tie, it would look good at a wedding.

with all that said, a wedding is always a tuxedo affair. if you wouldn't mind adding a tuxedo to your wardrobe, it can pay off in the long run. a tuxedo can be properly worn at many after-five events, although beware of appearing ostentatious--people may find you less approachable. a tux is best reserved to very nice dinners out, the symphony, the opera, the ballet, and other uppity affairs.

i like the midnight blue tuxedo from indochino, which is $379. there's also that coupon code which will get you a free shirt (you'll want a proper tuxedo shirt) and two free accessories (bow tie, cuff link and stud set).

coupons at indochino vary. the best one i've seen is 20% off of a suit, two free shirts, and one free accessory. if you see one of those, snatch it up. 10% to 15% off (without free extras) is fairly common. the current 10% off coupon is a bit meager, but it's better than nothing.

you can also watch livingsocial and groupon for indochino vouchers. i currently have two (as aforementioned).

--

in short, around $300.
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
oh, and if you need it by the end of april, and you do decide to buy from indochino, place your order asap. they're still recovering from the chinese new year, so they'll take 4-6 weeks for delivery.
Chiken's avatar
13 years ago
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Chiken
Don't Let Your Walls Down
thanks a bunch larz. I think I'm gonna get the three piece charcoal suit. hopefully it gets here in time!
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
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nestor
nestor
good call on the third piece. i'm getting a vest made for my charcoal suit. i think it really enhanced your options and allows you to dress up/down.
Chiken's avatar
13 years ago
link
Chiken
Don't Let Your Walls Down
found a 10% off code, so got the three piece for $359 instead of $399
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
cool. i hope you like it!
Chiken's avatar
13 years ago
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Chiken
Don't Let Your Walls Down
whats their support like? i just noticed i fuxored my shipping address and need it changed. hopefully the are better than toshiba.
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
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lucas
i ❤ demo
they're good.
Chiken's avatar
13 years ago
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Chiken
Don't Let Your Walls Down
yay! Angie changed my shipping address. I've got to say I haven't been this excited to get clothes in a long time. I was looking into pocket squares, cuff links, and dress shirts last night to try and finish off the suit.
Carpetsmoker's avatar
13 years ago
r1, link
Carpetsmoker
Martin
This is new at biased cut:

Do you ship outside of the US?

We can and do ship outside of the US – rates are $15 per order. Unfortunately our website is only capable of processing US shipping, but please continue with your order and we will be in touch shortly thereafter about the shipping rate.



yay
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
link
lucas
i ❤ demo
swell. they're among the best in the tailored shirt arena.
asemisldkfj's avatar
13 years ago
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asemisldkfj
the law is no protection
I need another shirt from them.
Carpetsmoker's avatar
13 years ago
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Carpetsmoker
Martin
http://biasedcut.com/shirts/crowe/ or http://biasedcut.com/shirts/monark/ ? hmmm
asemisldkfj's avatar
13 years ago
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asemisldkfj
the law is no protection
ooh I like the crowe.
Étrangère's avatar
13 years ago
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Étrangère
I am not a robot...
The monark strikes me as an awesome shirt for you, as a Dutch person.

The crowe is definitely for asemi.
Carpetsmoker's avatar
13 years ago
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Carpetsmoker
Martin
> The monark strikes me as an awesome shirt for you, as a Dutch person.

"As a Dutch person"? Explain?
nny's avatar
13 years ago
link
nny
M̮͈̣̙̰̝̃̿̎̍ͬa͉̭̥͓ț̘ͯ̈́t̬̻͖̰̞͎ͤ̇ ̈̚J̹͎̿̾ȏ̞̫͈y̭̺ͭc̦̹̟̦̭̫͊̿ͩeͥ̌̾̓ͨ
Apparently REI sells a nasa bike jersey. Sweeet
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
link
nestor
nestor
the monark is too fashion-forward for my job, but i like it a lot
Étrangère's avatar
13 years ago
r1, link
Étrangère
I am not a robot...
I don't know, carpet. I just looked at it and immediately thought "carpet's Dutch...as a Dutch person, carpet would look really nice in this."

*shrug*
nny's avatar
13 years ago
link
nny
M̮͈̣̙̰̝̃̿̎̍ͬa͉̭̥͓ț̘ͯ̈́t̬̻͖̰̞͎ͤ̇ ̈̚J̹͎̿̾ȏ̞̫͈y̭̺ͭc̦̹̟̦̭̫͊̿ͩeͥ̌̾̓ͨ
etrangere is apparently racist against dutch people. so take your windmill loving wooden shoes and go back to your tulip infested psuedo country. =P
Étrangère's avatar
13 years ago
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Étrangère
I am not a robot...
you're such a weirdo, nny. :)
nny's avatar
13 years ago
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nny
M̮͈̣̙̰̝̃̿̎̍ͬa͉̭̥͓ț̘ͯ̈́t̬̻͖̰̞͎ͤ̇ ̈̚J̹͎̿̾ȏ̞̫͈y̭̺ͭc̦̹̟̦̭̫͊̿ͩeͥ̌̾̓ͨ
=D
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
link
nestor
nestor
picked up two ties from here: http://dolbeau.ca/lookbook/
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
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lucas
i ❤ demo
oh.
lucas's avatar
13 years ago
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lucas
i ❤ demo
i wish the byron had a hot pink pin stripe instead of red.
Chiken's avatar
13 years ago
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Chiken
Don't Let Your Walls Down
Got the suit today. I love it. The only thing that I may need to get fixed is that one of the pants legs is slightly longer than the other, like 1/8''. tried on the pants and it's really no big deal, just kind of annoying.
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
link
nestor
nestor
nice - that's an easy fix.
Chiken's avatar
13 years ago
r1, link
Chiken
Don't Let Your Walls Down
I wonder what cologne they sprayed the suit with.

and apparently i'm retarded because I can't figure out how to tighten the vest
Étrangère's avatar
13 years ago
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Étrangère
I am not a robot...
ok, who the shit notices 1/8th of an inch difference between pant legs??
Étrangère's avatar
13 years ago
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Étrangère
I am not a robot...
> and apparently i'm retarded because I can't figure out how to tighten the vest

(cute)
nestor's avatar
13 years ago
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nestor
nestor
i ordered some gold toe over the calf mercerized cotton socks the other week. really happy with them - so much more comfortable than my other OTC socks. they stay up all day too.